Forum Replies Created
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I don’t like using coffee grounds for indoor plants. if you are in living soil fine. everything else it’s better to get it to the compost first. the nutrients in coffee grounds aren’t plant available unless some microbes or fungi brake them down first. and often people just get molds in their grow when they use coffeegrounds. if it works for you fine, but in my experience there are more cons than pros
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I deleted my reply to your update thing and put it here. it’s the same text.
I wouldn’t recommend. I almost killed some plants by using citric acid to pH my water. citric acid forms citrates and too much of those are not good for plants, it can mess with their metabolism.
so after my experience my suggestion is to stay with a proven product, pH adjusters aren’t expensive HOWEVER with a good soil fauna you might not see any problems with lemon juice or citric acid BUT with a good soil fauna you might not need to pH your water in the first place, that’s what Scotty is always talking about: using Recharge and the soil fauna will take care of the pH as long as your water isn’t extremely acidic or alkaline to start with
- This reply was modified 1 week, 5 days ago by BePennjier.
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it looks like someone with 11 fingers on his hand is flipping at least one of them😂
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something that gets overlooked often is the air pump set up:
Is you air pump inside your tent or outside? outside it pulls in cooler air (it’s obvious I know, but often people don’t bother or forget)how long is your tubing from air pump to bubbler? those pumps create a good amount of heat (something something physics and compressing gases) a longer run of tubes will give the air more time to cool down a bit but it’s a trade off between what your pump can handle (longer tube=more resistance) and how much the air in the tube can actually cool down in the given environment before it reaches the water.
I’ve killed plants before by pumping hot air in the res in the hight of summer😅
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Do you mean in the shroom episode? that was lion’s mane. but it was in the context of shrooms not THC, did he say it’ll work with weed too?
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Another thought: you could sand them. after decades in dry heat I’d expect the shells to be very desiccated and hardened. BUT I’ve never done this myself so who knows?
this excellent guy shows it in under a minute, I’ve put a time stamp in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzF9xRX09QU&t=403s
if you have plenty of seeds I’d do something like this: some just in water, some in water with H2O2, some sanded in water, some sanded in water with H2O2
I’m definitely on team “fingers crossed” here 🤞
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if you do this with a female plant you get feminized seeds. if you do this with a male plant (and I don’t know if this is even possible, I’d guess probably) you’d get male-inized (?) seeds.
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anything between 0 and 70% is realistic. I did a little germination test this year with some 10+ years old bag seeds I found at the bottom of a drawer, 8/10. It’s just surprising, almost like seeds are made to preserve the life in them for a long time 😉
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played around with citric acid lately? coz that’s pretty close to what my plants looked like when I did. what do you use to ph your water? and you’re saying it’s not your pen but it doesn’t matter how expensive it was or what brand it is, just check that it actually shows the correct ph, tho, I assume you do calibrate it regularly.
but yeah that’s what my plants start to look like when something is wrong with the ph 😔
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Just last night I was looking at seeds on zamnesia.com. They have some sort of RQS sale going on. I don’t know if they have a crazy deal with RQS or just cleaning out the inventory: 30-ish % off across the board. I had a look at their F1s, the Titan and Apollo cought my attention. But I’m not sure if they are worth the money, they ain’t cheap even with 30% off. Did you grow the Hyperion? How did it go?
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yes I’d see if there is a way to get the air pump outside of the tent, maybe you can find a way to suspend it there (they are loud and vibrate a lot yeah). For now I’d try to leave the tubes as short as possible with the pump outside.
there are good reasons to have those pipes as short as pos, like you mentioned: pressure. the longer pipes to cool the air inside the pipes wont do much on its own with room temperature. ideally one’d use something like a small active heat exchanger/aircooler after the pump but this is absolute overkill.
getting the pump outside the tent should help a lot,
a bit of H2O2, I use 2ml/l of a 3% solution as continuous dose. in your case I’d give it more maybe 4ml/l once or for a rinse (pHed water),
check the roots daily for the next couple of days
and things ‘should’ recover fairly well
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you use it as foliar spray, got ya, that’s the part my brain skipped 😅 I was talking about using it to ph water.
1ml of 50% sulfuric to 1l water is a 0.05% solution. I’d consider this a homeopathic dose, no offense tho I don’t have any reference points to what kind of strength those solutions usually have and when it works it works.
My ipm is silica, in the reservoir not as foliar; those yellow sticky insect traps in my lung room and in the tent. had a lot of bugs this summer and putting the traps in the lung room with a small desk lamp reduced the pest pressure inside the tent by I’d say 90%; and a dehumidifier, having control over my rH is worth every penny for me in my environment
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I thought I’m answering the original author of the post and just noticed you are a different account in the comments. so the ph part wasn’t intended for you. but I’d still love to learn about the citric ipm
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so a quick sanity check for my ph pen is my tap water. I know its ph and I test tap water first everytime I use the pen. It’s no calibration, just a quick check. Tap water is also the first I test after I callibrated the pen and your
water supplier should be able to give you the ph for the water they pump
into the pipes. My ph pen btw is the 10€ model from amazon (the yellow one 😉) as long as you store them properly (KCl solution) and know how to work with them rather than against them they caaan (with a slight stretch) be good for years… yeah I know I shouldn’t but as long as it works it works.The other thing is the citric acid. I stopt using it and that’s what I recommend. Citric acid forms citrates and for plants those are like high fructose corn sirup. they take it up easily and it messes with their metabolism. with citric acid and thus additional citrates in the system the plants litteraly can’t be bothered to mess around with other nutrients coz they have the cheap energy from the citrates. It’s like a drug for them and they rather have their drug than a proper meal.
you said you use it as an IPM, I’ve never heard that before and can’t see how that is supposed to work, can you explain that a bit?