jmystro
Forum Replies Created
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Garbage in, garbage out.
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You mention you’re in a living soil. Water until about 5 days before harvest. Don’t top dress anything that will take weeks to become available.
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You will ruin your bud if you just stick it in a freeze drier without knowing the exact parameters needed. There are companies that claim to have figured out the process like https://www.spaceweedusa.com/ and https://harvestright.com/shop/
I’ve asked DGC who’ve used one to give us the data. Time, temp and pressure are a few data points I’d like to have.
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Structure is genetic. You can influence structure by manipulating certain hormones though. One way to induce foxtails early would to be done by using bloom boosters with biostimulants that signal the plant to mature too soon. If done too soon, bud sites will stretch to fill in causing calyx foxtails. Stable genetics will not herm but light leaks will cause vegetative foxtails to form out of calyx as it tries to reveg.
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They may have started to fade a bit soon but there is nothing you can do about it at this point. Let them finish.
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Hard to say from the pics. The fungus is white and it will turn the bud brown. You should see the fungus hyphae between buds if it’s there. You’ll smell the mold as well.
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You can use the regular formula of Grow Dots outdoors as the auto will not have an extended veg. If you were growing photoperiod plants then I’d suggest the extended formula. With an autoflower, any pot over 10 gallons is super overkill. They only have a month of veg.
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You can use microbes and enzyme products together without issue. Microbes also make enzymes.
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Closer to 10% to have some buffer to go up or down a little over time.
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About 8-10% final moisture content is perfect smoke.
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Great close ups of the calyx but I don’t see any mold. Looks like some physical damage like Sunny mentioned.
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Correct.
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It’s been too long. I’d like to see Mr. T and the nursery again.
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As long as the stem is green and not woody, then roots can easily form. You can speed up the process by scraping off some of the outer cell layer and add a little rooting hormone on wound for roots to form from.
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I try to advise against using carbon based sources for raising or lowering pH. In small amounts baking soda and acetic acid are fine. But I would never recommend using carbon based additives for pH on a large scale in reservoirs. Carbon creates solids and sludge.
