jmystro
Forum Replies Created
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Citric acid can be used to lower pH but as you’ve found out it’s not stable. Phosphoric acid (H3PO4) is a more useful acid found in most pH down products as it also becomes plant food as it breaks down.
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If you find a winning pheno, keep it. If you S1 (self) a clone, there is no guarantee any of the seeds it produces will be like the clone and you’ll probably never find a similar pheno again if you only make a few seeds.
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When everything in your grow is dialed in and want to supplement CO2, it’s about consistency. You need a CO2 controller to make any difference. Without a way to control the levels, you’re wasting time and money. CO2 boosts are not helpful. Plants produce a certain number of stomata on a leaf depending on CO2 levels to be efficient. If CO2 levels are low, the plant will produce more stomata per leaf. If CO2 levels are high, they’ll produce fewer stomata per leaf. Fluctuating CO2 levels throughout the day without consistency confuses the plant.
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65-68F is the ideal temperature range like paka mentioned. Soil temp can drastically affect microbe populations.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16329892/
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Comparison of temperature effects on soil respiration and bacterial and fungal growth rates - PubMed
Temperature is an important factor regulating microbial activity and shaping the soil microbial community. Little is known, however, on how temperature affects the most important groups of the soil microorganisms, the bacteria and the fungi, in situ. We have therefore … Continue reading
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If you want to trim the plant while it’s still alive then you’d better make sure when you cut a branch or leaf that nothing oozes out. Your plant’s internal plumbing should not be pumping at harvest. If it is… you’re doing it wrong. Don’t water the last 5-7 days before harvest and harvest in middle to end of dark cycle. Guttation from flowers is also a concern with a saturated rhizosphere at harvest. You should be drying in a controlled environment. I don’t care where you live or what the conditions are like outside. If you truly have a controlled environment, then you have no reason to compromise the process. dead or alive, the trichomes are coming with me. The speed of the drying process has more to do with the environment than any amount of bio-mass left on while drying.
I like to have fresh frozen trim to process and fresh scissor scrapings to put in the blunts as I trim as my reward. You do you.
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A healthy rhizosphere requires dissolved oxygen (O2) as well as moisture (H2O). Water is not able to hold as much oxygen as the air, so roots can consume the available oxygen in the water to the point where roots start to ‘suffocate’ pretty quick. There is really no such thing as over-watering. Roots can live submerged as long as O2 levels are sufficient. In comparison, CO2 is about 200 times more soluble than oxygen. As long as oxygen levels are high, you can water coco damn near as often as you like. But know this, plants uptake far more water than minerals so if your EC/PPM is too high, over time salts will form during the dry back periods creating an acidic media. When it comes to feeding, more often should have a lower PPM than less often when PPM can be a bit higher. A nuclear dose of oxygen free radicals will kill life in a soil (like microbes, fungus gnat eggs/larvae, etc.), but lower doses can add oxygen without harming microbes. A 3 or 4:1 ratio of water to 3% H2O2 can kill microbes and some pests. 2-3 teaspoons per gallon of 3% hydrogen peroxide will not harm microbes while adding extra oxygen to your media. This is how you’d water/feed a media like coco more often. Plenty of growers supplement CO2 for their leaves and ignore the O2 boost roots love.
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Every water source on earth has a little chloride. Don’t go thinking you need to remove it or that it kills microbes. Chloride is an essential element required by plants. Your plants would die without it.
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You can let it sit for a day without an air stone to allow chlorine to evaporate from your city water. Air stone will speed up process. If your city water has chloramines in it, then you’ll need an activated carbon filter to remove them.
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Carbon in the air in the form of CO2 when mixed with water, creates carbonic acid. It’s a natural weak acid that helps dissolve limestone for example, releasing minerals. Using an air pump/stone in a high CO2 grow room environment will pump carbon in to your reservoir.
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In nature when winter is soon to come, plants produce and release ethylene gas as a chemical signal to other plants near by to hurry up and finish. It’s one way they communicate. Short of gassing our room at the end, New mill made a product that promotes the synthesis of ethylene. There are many enzymes, hormones, proteins and amino acids that build secondary metabolites (like seed production and the oils in a trichome) that could also be in Winter Frost. All those building blocks work together in very complex ways to promote or inhibit growth. This is why using the wrong product at the wrong time can be so detrimental to getting to harvest.
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Dry? Fresh frozen material is not dried and doesn’t need to be stored. Freeze it, then process it.
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Winter Frost has nothing to do with triggering any cold response. Winter Frost aids in senescence so it must have ingredients involved in the biosynthesis of ethylene. You’re not bottling ethylene gas so if I was going to formulate a product like Winter Frost it would have some ethylene precursors like Ethephon and ACC.
Ethephon – https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethephon
ACC – https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/1-Aminocyclopropane-1-carboxylic_acid
Ethylene Role in Plant Growth, Development and Senescence: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5378820/
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Sorry to hear about your troubles with Winter Frost. What’s in Winter Frost seems to be a big secret. I’ve seen it asked many times and I get why some formulas remain undisclosed for business reasons but it’s not magic and you can’t fool me. 😉 If Winter Frost is supposed to aid in senescence then it must have ingredients involved in the production of ethylene. You’re not bottling ethylene gas so if I was going to formulate a product like Winter Frost it would have some ethylene precursors like Ethephon and ACC.
Ethephon – https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethephon
ACC – https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/1-Aminocyclopropane-1-carboxylic_acid
Ethylene Role in Plant Growth, Development and Senescence: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5378820/
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The waxy outer shell of a trichome is called the cuticle. We dry bud and ‘cure’ oxidize the cuticle. The waxy membrane is soft when it forms on a live plant and hardens as it oxidizes during the drying process.
