jmystro
Forum Replies Created
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This is an issue with potassium. Potash deficiency affects the leaf blade edge leaving the center of the leaf green initially. Let’s go through all the reasons potassium could be lacking. It’s an element needed by the plant in higher proportion than any other throughout the plant’s entire life cycle with the exception of hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon of course. Potassium has one of the widest pH ranges so the issue is rarely that. Other elements would also be affected by pH being out of range. Damaged roots from over/under-watering is the most common issue and antagonisms from too using much calcium, magnesium or nitrogen can also lock out potash. Root damage or too much mag are the most common causes when using a complete nutrient program from a bottle or powder. Growers using organic inputs could actually run out but not a grower using soluble mineralized nutrition.
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It’s easy to mix a hot soil when using too much blood meal for example. What’s done is done. There is no fixing a hot soil with plants in it.
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Pop seeds until you find something you really like. That’s subjective. You will never provide perfect conditions for a seedling you know nothing about. Don’t ever expect a plant to reach peak performance when guessing. Learn to clone the keeper plant you find. Running clones over multiple cycles is the only way to collect any viable data to judge your progress over time as a grower. Seeds are lottery tickets. People do win the lottery but expecting to win the lottery with every seed is setting yourself up for disappointment.
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Until a few days before harvest. You want the plant to pull out as much moisture from the pot as possible before harvest. Don’t water and harvest the same day because of guttation risks. Guttation sap can cause mold in buds.
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Here’s an old dudegrows article – https://dudegrows.com/make-potent-cannabis-oil-aka-canna-butter/
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You can cut Canna Coco into any soil mix but it’s an amazing media all by itself. You can use 100% Canna Coco with Grow Dots.
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Genotype (Genetic tree) plus environment equals phenotype. The trichome’s profile is known as the chemotype (chemical profile). Genetics express themselves in many ways, in part based on their environment along with it’s genetic code. The environment not only includes air temperature, relative humidity and barometric pressure. Light spectrum/intensity, mineral availability and other bio-stimulants also affect plant morphology. Structure is mainly genetic with other environmental influences playing a role. Main variables I’m looking for include vigor, flower time, branch thickness (girth>length), tight internodal spacing, number of bract/calyx per nodal cluster, cluster shape, trichome density per calyx, calyx to leaf ratio, etc. Trichomes that form on stems and large fan leaves as well are a good sign. The chemotype is the most important variable along with structure and trichome density. How a plant smells while it’s alive can have little to no bearing on the final flavor. It’s all about flavor and effect when consuming. For the new people that don’t know, I will not do interviews as a wanted man. I’m still considered a criminal where I live with my multiple cannabis felonies and fuck you demeanor.
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You don’t need an inert media like rockwool to start seedlings. Going right into a lightly amended soil is ok. There’s nothing too ‘hot’ in your soil mix like blood meal that would harm a seedling.
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@oldestschool Please never tell anyone to use cal-mag. Especially on a plant with a potash issue. That’s harmful advice.
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Those charts are shit because they don’t give any context. There are many reasons for nutrient unavailability.
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Potash is the issue here. Potassium is not immobile. It’s just lacking.
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I only use supplemental CO2 (1100-1200 ppm) in my flower room. I do not supplement CO2 above ambient (400-500 ppm) in my veg room because I want my plants to produce more stomata per leaf in veg. This will help boost growth through the transition to flower when they’re introduced into the flower room’s high CO2 environment. The number of stomata that form on a leaf is determined by the carbon available in the air. Higher carbon levels cause a plant to produce fewer stomata. Low carbon levels will cause the plant to produce more stomata per leaf.
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This is the exact opposite of nature. Limiting root space is not a good thing. Over-watering is always the problem. Not the container size. I’d never grow a seed or clone in a solo cup for any amount of time.
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Rockwool has a neutral pH of 7. Roots in an inert media prefer a pH of 5.5-6. Soak the rockwool in a 5.5 pH solution for a few hours before use.
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Dichlorvos is a poison that should not be used around consumables like cannabis. Always thoroughly research any chemicals you put in your grow.
