jmystro
Forum Replies Created
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Doesn’t really matter. I always keep the same lights on time so their morning watering schedule never changes.
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What Sunny said.
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Leaf deformities are often an initial sign of pH swings out of range.
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As long as there’s moisture, the seedling can come completely out of it’s shell before transplanting so don’t feel any need to rush. Most wait until the tap root is about an inch long. Don’t lay the paper towel flat. Prop the paper towel up vertical so the tap root can form perfectly straight down between the fold.
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This plant is needing more food. It’s currently being underfed.
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Leaf deformities are typically caused by stressed/damaged roots from pH and/or over/under-watering. This is assuming it’s not some form of variegation.
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It’s not really potassium silicate or silicic acid. It’s got plant available potash (K2O) and silicon dioxide (SiO2) that’s derived from potassium silicate (K2SiO3). Silicon dioxide mixed with water converts to plant available silicic acid (H2SiO3).
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Males are males. Females are females. Intersex plants can show both male and female parts. Males don’t turn female or vice versa. You can ‘reverse’ males and females to create feminized and masculinized seeds. No one is only making male seeds.
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zero
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Yes, that’s a nanner.
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CO2 levels need to be controlled and consistent during the light cycle. You are not doing your plants any favors with fluctuating CO2 levels during their light cycle.
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Garbage genetics with no vigor is a double wammy. Autos flower based on time, not size.
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No spectrum is beneficial during the dark period. Green is the only acceptable spectrum you can use to work under that does not affect photosystems l or II during the dark cycle.
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3% hydrogen peroxide at a ratio of 3:1 water/peroxide will kill mold (fungus/microbes) on contact. You can soak roots in this concentrated solution for about an hour. After, you can use 2-3 tsp per gallon of 3% peroxide at anytime without harming microbe populations. The reaction is what is harmful to microbes. You can prevent any possible harm by forcing the reaction in water. H2O2 decomposes to H2O and O2 in water. It comes in an opaque bottle with stabilizers to prevent decomposition from H2O2 into H2O and O2 on the store shelf. It’s the O2 we’re after for roots/microbes. Decomposition happens faster with catalysts like heat and/or light (especially UV). When you don’t have Pythium, you can add fairly concentrated peroxide in water and let it sit under light/sun for about 10 minutes and you’ll have O2 and not reactive H2O2. Also, never pump hot, CO2 enriched grow room air into your reservoir.
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Media is anything used as a platform to house roots. From inert rocks to living soils. Amended and living soils have nutrients in the soil. Only water is required. The life in the soil makes the nutrients soluble in water. If the soil/growing media is not amended with nutrients, nutrients must be delivered to the media/roots in water. Most bag soils like Fox Farm are lightly amended with about a month or so of nutrition, some have non. After that runs out, you’ll need to use a bottled or powdered nutrient formula. That’s the situation you’re finding yourself in. You’ll need to start supplying a liquid nutrition solution soon.
