jmystro
Forum Replies Created
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Everyone on the team is fairly active here. Some of us more than others. The Dude and Scotty spend most of their time building the shows. We’re a great team and everyone has their roles. That’s why you’ll mainly see me answering questions here because it’s always been my job to manage the community and make sure correct info is being shared. If you have specific questions for any of us just tag us and we’ll respond.
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NEVER buy a digital pH meter. NEVER. Throw that shit in the trash and use test drops.
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How are you measuring pH? Digital meters will lie at some point. They don’t last long even with proper care. 400 ppm is fairly hard but there’s much worse out there. You may want to filter it a bit to get it under 300. It will be difficult to maintain an acidic pH with high calcium (alkaline) water. Cheap pH down would mainly consist of citric acid. Phosphoric acid cost more but is more stable and becomes plant available dihydrogen phosphate. Most pH down products contain some ratio of the two.
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A seedling is in the vegetative state as soon as it’s born. It takes about a month for a seedling to become sexually mature in any situation. Doesn’t mean it’s going to ever show it’s sex in veg. Seedlings are initially provided nutrition through their embryonic sac, so they don’t need nutrients for about the first 10-21 days depending on the cultivar.
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No such thing as a cal-mag deficiency. Calcium and magnesium are two completely different elements with completely different deficiency symptoms. Your plant is lacking neither. This random splotching is typically from pH swinging quickly out of range. Leaf twisting often occurs as well.
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6
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40 L is about 10.5 gallons.
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Many new growers confuse pre-flower calyx (swollen and mature) as pollen sacs. This is bud, just not clustered like with flowers. This is what mature bud looks like. They go from tiny ovals into round false seed pods when mature.
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Instead of just saying digital meters are junk, I’ll explain why.
pH probes have 2 electrodes, a glass measuring electrode and a reference electrode. The reference electrode has potassium chloride (neutral pH of 7) inside and has a specific amount of hydrogen ions. The glass electrode works by measuring the difference in pH between the reference electrode and a solution being tested. The probe must stay submerged in potassium chloride to allow ions to flow in and out. Over time, potassium chloride will leach out of the reference electrode causing the damn thing to lie even when showing proper calibration.
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This is the way to do it, but there is no need to shake out any Dots if you want to go with your idea.
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I’ve used a bunch of different meters over the years and have come to one conclusion. Trash. When a bunch of replacement Bluelab Guardian probes were bad brand new, I threw it all away. They’ll lie (even after calibration) after about 6 months to a year. Test drops have never failed me. Thankfully I’ve always had them to test against digital meters.
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5 years? I don’t believe that at all. They don’t last more than a year even if maintained properly. It’s lying to you at this point.
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Hydro is too delicate for seedlings for most new growers. Better know what you’re doing. There will be no forgiveness. Coco and soils are forgiving. They create a buffer. Water temp and pH better be on point 24 hours a day or you’ll run into serious problems.
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Recharge has all the correct endo-mycos. Hard water high in calcium will be alkaline. If it’s too alkaline (above 8), you’ll want to lower it to around 6.
