[m1ghtym0u3e]

In my opinion never safe to rip away nutrients from your plants before harvest especially calcium. Assuming you’re in hydro and not some type of soil where there’s already a buildup of nutrients or something similar. That’s just asking for budrot.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

At this point since they’re so prevalent where I live I just mix in some mosquito bits as part of my normal top dress/dry amend and keep yellow traps for monitoring and I haven’t seen them in a very long time. Mosquito bits contain BTI its a bacteria that eats the larvae before they can even hatch. So I don’t really even care if I see an adult in there anyway.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

All is “easy” to someone who has dedicated the time to learning and trail and error. If your dead set on running DWC then god speed. Just do your research and expect some challenges along the way. PH will be your biggest challenge. Southern ag fungicide is the same stuff as hydroguard just 1000x more concentrated and it works wonders to keep pathogens out and stabilize ph. Beyond that just be careful to avoid organics and even beneficial bacteria not meant for full on hydro it’ll make your life hell to clean. Ask me how I know. Beyond that guess you got a whole team here to help when you need it. 🤘

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Your res temps need to be below 70 or your gonna be chasing PH and root rot. Most people do clones in these type of settings and just root them in collars. Alternatively can use 1.5inch rockwool for clone or a seedling but that comes with its own set of rules.

Honestly though what you just said sounds like: I just got a learners permit and an F1 car! How do I work this thing?

There’s just so many pitfalls with this style of growing that I think you’d be better off trying to return them and considering coco or some other angle. There’s good reasons why even advanced growers and commercial facilities across the board run coco or rockwool with salts. The former at least being relatively controllable with some wiggle rooms for inevitable f-ups.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Def comes down to preference here. The best way it to let a plant go til its almost about to rot one day and see if you like the effects with more amber or not. You’ll also get good feel for what late stage looks like. If you wait too long tho it can start to rot the buds so approach with caution.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I’m a truck driver and had to give up smoking couple years ago and I grow now so the wife has clean meds and I love it. Beautiful plant and super fun lil hobby.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I don’t remember exact ratios with hydro guard it was allot though. Using southern ag I only add 1ml to 20 gallons and that’s probably overkill and it keeps things perfectly stable. Hydroguard is literally 99% water I don’t know that you could overdo it honestly.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

DWC is very difficult at above 70f so if you can do something about that that’s the obvious answer. I ran whole garden above that with supplemented oxygen using air stones. But also consider a high powered pump with a venturi made from vinyl tubing in the res so your not constantly having to clean your air stones cuz they will clog daily. Beyond that southern ag makes a fungicide that uses the same beneficial bacteria as hydroguard but its 100,000 times more concentrated and half the price. In my experience peroxide is ok to use for the first day but its very short lived due to the nature of it. Peroxide is unstable that’s what makes it useful however it only lasts a few hours for that reason. I had much better luck using bacteria Bacillus amyloliquefaciens (hydroguard/souther ag fungicide). Fight fire with fire 🙂 Good luck.

p.s. It will help with your ph swing also. And I would consider 6.5 to be far too high. If your ph is climbing that fast its likely bacteria causing it. You can safely ph down to 5.6 and let it ride no higher than 6.0. But this is why allot of people choose things like coco so you have a buffer and your not fighting to keep the water oxygenated.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

If your using coco or soil as a medium you can just mix in wollastonite. Its dirt cheap like 10-20$ for a lifetime supply. It will slow release silica. I do a second top dress at the beginning of flower also.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

It takes work to find a way to love yourself. Once you do you can move forward without fear. Knowing that your reason to exist is so simple it was in front of you the whole time. The meaning of life is to live. Not sad just simple.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Hmm never even considered that as a possible risk good to know.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Unsure I’ve never ran that line before. Salt based nutes shouldn’t have any buildup but organic based lines can for sure. But you definitely have root rot going on based on the other pics.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I would run a heavy dose of H202 for a day. Then swap out your nutrient solution then run a heavy dose of hydroguard or similar. It’s just bacteria you’re not gonna overdo it. But if you already have a ton of bad bacteria in your nutrient solution and in the roots you gotta address that. Just my opinion and how I would address it.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Can dump a few ounces rather than a few drops if its 3% drug store stuff.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Yeah I use 50% phosphoric for PH down. And some southern ag fungicide in my res to stabilize and keep PH from swinging too much. Yes its a very low dose because its a very strong acid and it knocks the fuck outta PM just ask my last harvest about it. I honestly forget the ratios for citric foliar but I think its about 10x of sulfuric. You’ll see similar ratios in commercial products for citric. If your getting gnats just topdress some BTI and your done.