[m1ghtym0u3e]

Streaks can be genetics, everything means you got problems.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Also those UV leds aren’t really that great from my research the effects of UV is still up for debate. However LED UV lights the jury already came back it seems and said they’re no good. You need fluorescent fixtures for UV. Sorry not trying to be negative just a heads up. I know because I own a set of those exact UV lights and have yet to use them for that reason. However their full spectrum supplemental lights are pretty awesome so far for under canopy.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I know because I really want a heater too and I’ve been impatiently waiting lol. Watching like a hawk I got my cart already out together lol.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Also they’re supposed to be doing a site wide 10% plus 15% with a code on top for Black Friday. I think it starts in only a couple days. So 25% off! I’d cancel that order and wait.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Why didn’t you use the %15 off code. That’s allots monies

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Hard to tell but looks pretty normal to me. Seedlings can look kinda funky while they get established and start making true leaves. I wouldn’t sweat it. Just make sure humidity is correct and whatever soil you use has good drainage. Should be fine. Here some of mine.

• This reply was modified 2 months ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Pens are fast and handy. And a decent one like an apera, blue lab, or milwaukee is the only way you can really determine things down to the decimal which absolutely matters if your running in coco/hydro. A chemical test is a must though as a failsafe I agree with that part.

Also when done using a pen you MUST rinse it with clean mineral free water and store the probe in storage solution. This isn’t optional. Any pen not stored this way will fail. And any probe of any kind no matter what will fail eventually. That’s why the better ones have replaceable probes. They are consumables.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Citric is the main ingredient in Lost coast plant therapy for mold or PM. Its also the active in most other organic PM/IPM products. Sulfuric is stronger and better for PM and has the added benefit of hurting pests also however its less safe to handle. I have had a ph pen test normal under tap water and then still be off when I go to test a more acidic solution. The acids work because they temporarily change the ph of the leaves to make it inhospitable to PM that may be rooted into the tissue. Powdered sulfur breaks down into sulfuric acid over time which is why its been used in ag for mold/PM for decades. But with straight acid your skipping the gunk. I apply at extremely low levels I might want to add. 1ml of 50% sulfuric acid to 1L of water. Maybe even less if using fogger or if its just IPM and I don’t see any signs of pressure.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I use sulfuric or citric for IPM and it’ll leave some spots like that if I go super hard but not that bad.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Here’s two name brand pens both were calibrated before this shot. Working in coco it only takes a 0.2-0.3 delta to make your whole garden look like that. Start with the basics order some $12 drops then come back after.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.
• This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Probes go bad on any pen like the other person below said. Test drops are $12 and will pay for themselves in the long run. I have fancy equipment too but still use drops weekly to test. Just 10 secs can rule out a whole lot of time wasted. Troubleshooting 101 is rule out what’s cheap and fastest.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

How are you checking your PH? Are you using a cheap pen (cuz cheap pens suck)? Drops? Looks like PH for sure. Runoff EC can swing all over depending on allot of factors. Just focus on getting 10-20% runoff that’s all you need. Runoff EC is good data but chasing it isn’t worth it imo. Also can you post a pic of the whole plant? Are you spraying anything for IPM? Is that just lower growth or new growth?

• This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I use a 50/50 canna coco perlite blend for seedlings. Then I switch to 70/30 when I transplant. I run heavy perlite for more control over my drybacks since I have automated watering. Straight coco or a 80/20 blend is fine depending on preference. I also add in 5% gypsum and wollastonite by dry weight to my mix for boosted calcium and silica without having to spend a fortune.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

The fact is this isn’t the 90s anymore. We have breeders and we have free open access and ethical and stable breeding practices are well known and available to everyone. There is no need to breed your bagseed anymore. And to give that out to the public knowing it has allot of instability is unnecessary.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I disagree and the inbreeding in cannabis will eventually lead to more and more unstable genetics. For a small medical grow like I have a Hermed crop means I may not have enough meds to last my wife as long as she needs in between harvests And for a larger grower that can mean wasted nutrients, electricity, time and labor because they can’t sell seeded cannabis on an open market.. Herming is a weakness if it’s only subjected to mild stress and you can keep the cookies. Thanks no thanks.

• This reply was modified 2 months ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.