Forum Replies Created
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Would be good to add a pic. If you cut off the top node, the two lower nodes should start growing into two new branches. If you fimed (fuck I missed) then you can get a bud to start right where you didn’t cut the full node off, at the top. But now you will have three branches coming from the top. Up to you if that’s the case. Throw a pic in so we can see.
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At day 48 I’d say there could be some bulking left for the plant. I run organics and start lowering feed around 3 weeks out from estimated finish (which i have a hard time trusting). After a few grows you’ll see a pattern where they aren’t eating as much. I usually go 9- 10 weeks with all my plants. So week 7ish is where i start to lower feed. I do like to do water only for the past week or more. No need to flush in organics. Just give a healthy watering when they need it. Remember they aren’t drinking as much at the end. You don’t want to overwater and cause guttation. Where the inner fluids start secreting out of the plant.
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I’m a fan of leaving room for the roots at the bottom. So I usually have my root ball level with the new soil, or like an inch or two below. Are you still using the Stonington Blend? I add rice hulls, pumice, and biochar to my Stonington Blend. I’ve had great luck with watering in 10% water volume of the size of my container, with that mixture. I like to premoisten my media before putting it into my pots. I’ll use half of the 10% to premoisten the media in a tote (nice to be able to mix it with my hands to ensure even moisture). Then once I transplant the root ball into the container I add the other 5%. I’ve always liked watering my entire pot at transplant, and inoculating it with my recharge. Even when going from 2gal to 7gal or 10s. When doing so I don’t have to water again for almost a week. Usually 5 days minimum. Yucca also really helps with getting the moisture even, and being precise with where I want to water. Meaning, say my root ball is drier than my premoistened soil. I can then water just the root ball more than the rest of the pot, and not worry about it running off to the sides. I use a 3.5 gal Chapin sprayer with a 1 min per gallon nozzle.
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I’ve had amazing success with that cheap meter. I only use the moisture reading though. I dont trust the ph, and have no need for the light readings. I scrog low with 4 to 5 large pots, 7 or 10 gals. It’s hard for me to pick up and judge the weight sometimes. It may not be super precise but it’s usually very consistent. I like the long prongs which reach to the bottom of the pot, allowing me to judge the entire pot instead of just the top. I also put pumice and rice hulls in my soil and don’t see any false reading because of it. I do suggest using the meter and picking up the pot to get feel for the readings. One other suggestion, is to not leave it in the pot for some time and then take a reading. Take a reading right after you stick it in the soil, or wait like 5-10 seconds. I know a lot of people hate on this meter, but it can be a valuable tool as long as your paying attention to other signs as you use it. Once you use it enough you’ll probably get a feel for your watering cycle through different stages and won’t even need it. But it’s definitely handy to keep around.
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I use fish shit and recharge together on the regular. Do which is ever convenient. It doesn’t matter if you mix them.
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I find that thricomes seem to harden off after a proper dry. Making it less destructive when you trim. @jmystro had a good scientific explanation of what happens when thricomes start to cure.
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The ones i circled are just single calyx. Looks like you got a female! No buds will form there though. The two branches I pointed to are going to be your new tops. Looks like they already grew out before you topped though. Those two branches are now your apical meristems. There’s usually one, now there’s two since you topped.