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Whenever I’m on a first run of any particular genotype, I always harvest the plant in 2-3 stages.
I’ll take the cloudy ones first, then let the remainder grow out another week, and harvest more, then run a final chop when they’re amber.
Cure and consume all three (one at a time) and you’ll get a pretty good feel for the effects you’re looking for. Then, on the next run, just note what the trichs looked like at your preferred ripeness and harvest the whole plant then.
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I decarb in a mason/ball jar. Zero odor. Put in the flower whole or ground, seal the jar, goes into the oven 220*F for 2 hours, take it out and let it cool. Done. Note that if the goal is to infuse an oil you MUST decarb BEFORE you add the flower into the oil. I’ve found much lower potency if you put uncooked weed just straight into oil and try to do an all in one decarb and infusion.
Once decarbed, I just pour in the oil to the flower level, re-seal, and back into the oven for another 2 hours. Let it cool and pour through a mesh coffee filter or cheesecloth to strain.
- This reply was modified 5 days, 2 hours ago by pacnw-dan.
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I would think not. Dark period is supposed to be… dark (with the possible exception of Far red/IR for maybe 15 minutes as the lights turn off.) What is your goal with running UV at night?
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They’ll probably sprout, but you probably won’t know what they are. Could be fire. Could be junk hemp. Personally I avoid wasting my time with unknowns, especially with a minimum oof 4-5 months before you even will know what you have. That’s a lot of life to give up for a bag of unknowns.
Suspecting disease won’t be much of an issue–the only thing I’m aware of that can pass through seeds is latent viroids and the likelihood of getting a viroids from China (where cultivation is prohibited) is probably pretty low.
- This reply was modified 3 months, 1 week ago by pacnw-dan.
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pacnw-dan
MemberJune 12, 2024 at 8:48 am in reply to: Making Seeds from Clones to preserve geneticsYou’re referring to “selfing”? That’s where you apply a chemical (often silver thiosulfate) to one plant’s flowers, they “reverse” into male flowers producing (feminized) pollen and then you apply that pollen to another female (either a clone of itself or another female cultivar).
The results will be Feminized S1 seeds, which are basically F1’s (first filial generation, “sisters”), similar to breeding two sibling plants together. You will get a similar genetic expression from that plant as if you had bred it with a similar sibling. So in theory, about 50-75% of those seeds will be very similar to the parent(s) (not clones). In those, you’re likely to find a plant that will be close enough. 25% of those seeds will be outliers, expressing genetics from past generations rather than the parent plant.
If you want to create seeds that are near-100% identical to the parent, you’ll need to go multiple generations into probably F3’s (take the progeny from the first reversal, grow them out, find the one that’s most similar or exact to your goal plant, then reverse and breed that one to the original). Grow them out, hunt, repeat. By the time you get 3 generations in, you should have a bag of seeds that will produce progeny that are overwhelmingly similar to your goal plant, and you’ll have your genetics for storage.
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Happy to have helped! 🙂
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If I’m decarbing for infusion, I’ll rough grind (I blast in a personal smoothie maker, shaking it hard, for about 3-5 seconds) and typically run 3-5 ozs of flower in a half-gallon wide mouth jar.
Honestly I’ve found zero effective difference during the bake between agitating it and leaving it sit. That glass jar’s going to radiate heat inside pretty evenly. But if you want to mix it, just a little roll back and forth every 30 mins is all it needs.