ZoomyCat
Forum Replies Created
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It is just every time I’ve seen dots like this online someone says spider mites. They eat and damage the leaves and prevent photosynthesis and eventually will web up the plant and make it non-smokeable.
I’m one for using nature to fight the pests and I’d go with some predatory mites in this situation, Which also work to combat thrips. My local grow store has little staked packets that I can put in my soil and then the pests are magically gone.
I like the organic solutions 😀
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Sure there are amazing known genetics. I’ve had good success with seeds that are bred around the same area of the world as me. They are going to work with the climate I’m in.
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Don’t you start with the Canna Coco?
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I did Aerogarden Sprouts and then transplanted when it was a seedling transitioning into veg. If I was to do a germination, Provided this is an auto I’d go right into the final bucket and as the seedling gets larger you slowly spread the water you give it further.
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Southern AB here.
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I said no removal but never really explained myself as to why so I’ll do it in a reply to myself. Even if those leaves have a little bit of browning on the tips, they are still the plants main source of photosynthesis so until the plant has bigger branches that overshadow the rest of the plant the purpose of those leaves is to generate energy for the little budding branches you see.
The pests on your plant want nothing more but for you to create a point of entry for them to be able to attack the vitality of the plant easier. I personally think of removing parts of the plant when in this state as kind of like if I were to cut my hand and put it in shark infested waters. No good will come of it.
If I were to guess what type of pest you have there – I’m no expert here but… Probably the starts of spider mites 😣 I’m sorry to be the bearer of that bad news but at least you can conquer it early now that you know!
Merry Xmas!
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I’m going to take things to extreme here in an example. You bumped your arm and have a bruise – Do we remove it? 😛
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No removal, you have pests though. That is what those spots are. You need to do some IPM for your plant 😉
Good on your for sticking through, that is how we learn the most!
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Agree with it depending on Photoperiod or Auto. I also think the type of pot you have to use is a factor too. I would think those air-pots are probably the easiest. I do not own them. I just drill holes in buckets so I go with the final planter size. But I could see how it would be useful to put the smaller size into the larger size. Take off the outside of the smaller pot and then move the root mass off to the side and take out the smaller bottom plate. Then just rough up the outside of the soil section so you have a cylinder root mass with proper aeration. I’d guess that the medium compacted into each divot ends up with Aeration issues over time but it would be interesting to know if this is true or not. then I’d think you just fill the outer planter while making sure you’re not burying the plant. you might need to put some medium at the bottom first or something.
That’s how I’d do it if it was a photo period and using those air-pots as an example of the pot changing it. With a bucket you would have to lift the plant and entire root/soil mass out and I’m not so sure going from anything other than a nursery pot or solo cup is going to be something where you don’t mess with the root ball of the plant and its progress.
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The slight purpling/pinking of the leaves is pretty 😀
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Some people probably think I abuse my autos, Its hard to say. I’ll learn how far is too far when I end up with an intersex plant. I personally don’t think the training stops until harvest. You can always tuck a leaf to prevent blocking of bud sites or gently bend lateral branches towards the side lighting.
I think the plant may find it a bit rough but then go ohhh, thanks for guiding me to a better light source!
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As @jmystro said you can use it straight or as a mix.
What I do is start with my desired potting mix %, Coco %, Perlite %, Worm Castings % and I mix all that thoroughly together then I add my Gaia Green 444 for the amount of growing medium I’ve got there and I mix that thoroughly in as well.
I’ve seen online it suggested you then leave this for about a week so the fertilizer can get broken down into the soil but I’m not so sure this matters because we don’t want the soil too hot for seedlings so we want that week or two for that to be broken down while the seedling is developing in the soil and this gives time for the seedling to grow before the nutrient availability hits.
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cool, I’ll keep them in mind.
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That’s crazy with how the fall of prohibition has been going.
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My room place sits at a very low 10% humidity, I too go on the lower side of the temperatures at 19-21C generally. It shifts outside and I need to adjust the knob’s on the heaters. Keeping the temps low like that lets the plants hit their optimal VPD easily which seemed like the better option than higher temps out of VPD range.
I totally agree that the best option is based on your individual environment.
Not everyone can control the temps in each room during the winter like I can.
