Forum Replies Created
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I just want to go over the terms so you’re clear on what you’re getting.
Auto and Photos are two sides of the same coin, You can have a semi-auto or fast flower but this simply goes into it being a mix of Auto and Photo that the genetics are not stabilized towards auto yet.
Feminized and Regular are the other two sides of the same coin. Feminized means we do something to the plant so the resulting seeds are only female. Regular means we can get male or female from the seeds.
What is it that you want to learn? A lot of people say Autos are for beginners simply because its easier to setup the environment for them. The easy of environmental setup is true but them being for beginners is not. They require you to pay close attention to the plant and do everything when it needs it, You need to listen to the plant and do what it tells you with as little delays as possible because you only have so much time to do that stuff…
With Photo period plants you can make mistakes and give the plant time to recover and do everything on *your* timeline.
I think this makes Autos more difficult but also makes it so they have more to teach you. You must listen to the plant and what it wants to be successful. This is what you must do with most plants and if you get used to running photos only and try to grow some herbs… Its going to be difficult.
But if you understand autos and try to run some herbs, Well those herbs are going to be listened to by the person that is used to doing things when the plants want.
I think running autos takes a certain skill of understanding and learning how to communicate with plants in a way that photos do not.
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The pistils are really sensitive, it happens. I would not worry about it.
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Especially on the calyx like that, These will form to be bud sites but are still small and sensitive. Very easy to disrupt and have fall off.
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Like… here is for the cost of gas going to the store bro. 😀
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NGL without multiple grow areas and having an extra “quarantine” area… The idea of quarantining your plants is great… But where do you do it so they stay healthy long enough to go with the rest of them?
I’m sure most of us realize this that quarantine is nice… But damn near impossible in a home grow as well.
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Got nothing to add. This covers it.
👍ZoomyCat Approved 👍 -
From what I’ve heard in doing research in breeding… Fast Flower = Semi-Auto. Basically its an auto breed that the plants did not display auto traits but kept the Photo genotype traits of flowering. But they did gain traits from the Ruderalis that allow them to flower faster in photo.
So basically you’ve got seeds that were made to be Autos but failed so they remarketted as fast flowering photo periods. But that fast flower is *because* of the Auto traits from the Ruderalis.
Just what my research leads me to believe, Fast flower = Semi-Auto = A photo bred with a Ruderalis not showing full auto traits every seed. If its fast flower it mostly shows photo traits but you know… Flowers faster due to ruderalis in there.
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I’ve only grown autos so I can’t answer this. I just know its normal for me to accidentally knock pistils off or for those pistils to go orange before the rest of the plant.
Really with this plant unless you over stress and stunt the hell out of the plant… What doesn’t kill it makes it stronger. Bend the branch, it beefs up.
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Good to hear. Keep up the progress updates!
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I had a thought today @Dude I’m wondering if the plant is close enough to the light? Perhaps it is cultivar specific but my plants are much shorter than yours with true leaves forming already under the Sprout lights. The Sprout lights are only 10w each so you’re providing more than enough light for sure!
I’d put the PPFD Meter on your phone onto the pot and see what they are getting and slowly raise the phone and see what the leaves are getting. Make sure its in that 100-300 mols/s range that you want for a Cannabis Sprout.
I just have a feeling that its running low even though its under a strong light based on the plant growth from the video in the first day and later on. If this is an auto then it will affect the whole grow because the cotyledon energy is being misused in stem elongation rather than leaf and node development.
I hope this is helpful knowledge from one grower to another. 😇
- This reply was modified 1 month ago by ZoomyCat. Reason: Noticed a typo
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I was wondering if that could happen… I saw the little pink lemonade auto pushing out against the medium and wondered… If the stem comes out wrong could the plant hammer head so bad it rips the whole top off? I guess you’ve confirmed this for me.
Francos Lemon Cheese, Get big and strong for dude!
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Honestly… I’ve bought flower, hash and shatter. Mixed them all in the grinder. Put them all in the small tube hash press I got and press them together.
Then they go through the decarb and I figure the Shatter is going to melt and mix with the hash and the hash is going to melt and mix with the flower. I end up with a really nice puck afterwards. The resulting puck never fails to couch and give a potent high. If it ends up with laughable stuff… Oh Jeeze my Mom used to be like stop laughing… Why are you laughing? this isn’t funny. Me: What are you talking about? *laughs* I don’t find anything funny. *laughs*
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Its odd… Southern Alberta is considered a desert. I grow very much like you do but its in a closet and the plants get to humidify my house. 😁
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I honestly did similar but for much lower time. My toaster oven does 25F increments so I went 225 at 25 minutes. I just did parchment paper and tinfoil. Smells like mad but only while you’re cooking. Good to know I can use the jars I got as a decarb device as well and it will cut out the smell.
I sometimes decarb to smoke if I want a really different effect from it. When you’re used to fresh and you decarb a little puck to smoke while mixing some kief in and the kief disappears into the puck material. Bye Bye time for a nap from this stuff.
Then you go back to your fresh stuff after that puck and you’re like Whoa! This hits good again! Just like the decarbed stuff did a day or so before.