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Ok here is something I don’t really see discussed to much, so when do you decide to give up on a plant and just take it as a loss, i have a Northern Light auto from RQS around day 50 still in veg and it has literally gave me trouble the entire grow the soil is FF Happy frog with grow dots mixed in, water PH is 6.3-6.5 the entire grow soil ph is around 6.8 she’s in a 2gal fabric pot watered once a day at 5 am the soil is bone dry every morning so im not over watering. I just can’t get this one to stay happy so it’s been more frustrating then enjoyable
oldestschool9 Comments-
I wouldn’t count on/plan on having that plant produce quality flowers, but I also wouldn’t destroy the plant either. I would at least try some things before culling, just to make it a learning experience. Maybe start by throwing some dolomite lime, or at least some Epsom salts.
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@budsofdoom for about two weeks my soil PH was over 7 so for those two weeks I lowered the PH to 5.3 to get the soil PH to come down I’m. Currently back to giving it 6.5
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@budsofdoom yeah I thought the pH was a little low, but it also looks overwatered as well, despite your insistence on it being dry. The plant could be sensitive to watering… my last grow with autos, I had a runt that would slouch after every watering, while all other plants in my tent were performing great. I adjusted and the runt ended up producing some really nice stinky sweet buds… So instead of frequent watering, which may be causing stress, try watering to run off starting like every 4 or 5 days or so.
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@budsofdoom ill give that a shot thanks for the suggestion
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Idk, I might be crazy. I still think your ph is too high. I aim for 6.0 in soil.
she does look overwatered and hungry.
her leaves are drooping but the stems look fine.
although I can’t really tell with these pictures they’re a little blurry.
i would PH the water down more, top dress her with some epsom, worm castings and some fishbone meal or any phosphorus rich nutes.
the PH could be why she’s not eating. Soil should fluctuate between 5.8-6.5 so that she can eat all nutes. They’re not all available at higher PH
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@snowyninja I’m fairly certain that sour soils prevent P and K uptake,which might explain why his autoflower is taking more than 7 weeks to start blooming and stretching. Alkaline soils prevent uptake of micros like iron and zinc. I also think I read somewhere that soil pH should increasingly become more alkaline as flowering occurs, at least until the last couple weeks before harvest.
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@budsofdoom I can’t speak for the science specifics, just speaking from the research I’ve done. Sometimes you can make food unavailable to your plant because the pH is off, or the pH is too consistent and the plant doesn’t have the nutes it needs available when it needs them. That’s why you should not aim for a consistent pH but aim for window of pH. I think Scotty and Dude spoke about it in one of the episodes. But I’m not an expert I’m just riffing, get ideas flowing.
Also, if she’s an auto she won’t flower until she has filled the pot with her roots. Given that she’s not root bound or stressed excessively.
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I don’t remember where I heard it. It might be bro science but it might just work… I heard flipping to a 12/12 for a time and then back to 18/6 can trigger flowering in some autos that are having trouble with the transition, Doing that helps it along then the ruderalis genes take over.
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She’s looking a little better this morning she was super droopy and sad when I got home from work last night pot was super light, I top fed with worm castings and lightly watered
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