Coco, runoff, and blumats…

  • Coco, runoff, and blumats…

    Posted by frank_white on January 10, 2025 at 7:42 am

    I am in a Coco perlite 70/30 mix, in 5 gal radicle bags using the smaller carrots(I think 5 inch) with the 5 inch drip rings. I haven’t had 10 runs yet, so still pretty new. From the little that I do know and have experienced, it seems like this run may be my best yet in terms of growth, at least up to this point(week 4 of flower). I’ve grown in coco before, but this is the first run with an automated watering system. Once a week I’ve been turning off the reservoir to let them dry back, and then when they feel much lighter, I will feed and/or turn the reservoir back on.

    My question is am I supposed to be watering coco daily until runoff, because right now I am not. That seems to be the common thesis online. I feed a few times a week by hand, and just have ph’d water in the gravity fed reservoir. Once a week I will water to runoff. Plants seem healthy and lush, and that’s all we can really go by, but again I’m a novice. Not trying to set myself up for some catastrophic finish.

    frank_white replied 8 hours, 53 minutes ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • casadelwhacko

    Member
    January 10, 2025 at 8:32 am
    DGC Producer

    First… 90% of my technique has been learned under the threat of wolves!🤣 I’m way unorthodox but having success.

    I have coco in every pot and bag in the casa. My flood is, of course the wet it/forget it mindset and it’s watered 5 times a day during lights up, once in the middle of the night and allowed to dry “rest” for about eight hours before it all repeats. I get crazy vigorous growth with most cultivars, without too much tip burn.

    With emitters it’s been a trial and error process. I don’t let them dry back much at all. It seems like when the do it’s hard on them and if they sag at all it’s a fight. I keep coco in those wet, always. My pattern is borrowed from the guys hitting Hugo blocks with shots every few minutes. Small hits that keep her moist consistently have worked better for me than a deluge and dryback style. Very little runoff this way but I suppose you also run a risk of salt buildup too. I’ve learned to alternate feedings from the rez with ph’d water that I boost a little “P” and Recharge and let it have a little intermittent fast but still hydrate, even minimally, daily.

    There’s way better minds at this here, but this has worked for me quite well. I’m only 13 months back after years of an aluminum foils closet and CFC bulbs decades ago. 30+ seed and innumerable clones this year though. Only ones I lost were culled by choice. 🤘🏼 Keep’em moist and grazing constantly rather than three big squares. I think it’s promotes more vigor and better mass. Silica is your friend too. Make’ able to hold all that water and not be spongy and lay down.

    Sorry about the pic… first thing that comes to mind when I say “Keeping the girls watered” since 1979. 🤘🏼🤣🤘🏼

    ABHX3!🤘🏼

  • frank_white

    Member
    January 10, 2025 at 9:03 am
    Free Membership

    This is very helpful! Thank you for taking the time I really appreciate it. I like your style! And somehow that picture just fits. Perfect representation, my friend.

  • jmystro

    Moderator
    January 10, 2025 at 10:08 am
    AdministratorFree MembershipDGC Executive Producer

    Growers who irrigate coco multiple times a day are usually root bound in a small pot. Nothing to brag about. 😉 Watering is relevant to the pot size, root mass and foliage density.

    • frank_white

      Member
      January 10, 2025 at 11:31 am
      Free Membership

      Can you explain this a bit more? I’m so confused, clearly lol.

      • jmystro

        Moderator
        January 10, 2025 at 12:06 pm
        AdministratorFree MembershipDGC Executive Producer

        A small clone/seedling can not drink very much water. No matter the container size. About 98-99% of the water they pull up through their roots is released back into the air through their leaves. Limiting root space limits plant structure. Branches form thin instead of gaining girth after becoming rootbound. Yield comes from stem thickness. More space is always better as far as they’re concerned. Root vigor equals plant vigor. Every plant is a unique individual. How much water a plant will consume depends on genetic vigor, container size, root mass, amount of foliage and the environment (light, VPD, etc). These 5 basic variables need to be understood before mastering irrigation. For example, If I put a newly rooted clone with average vigor in a 1 gallon pot of saturated media, that clone will not need watered/fed for at least 3 days initially. If left in that pot for a month, it will need to be watered/fed maybe once a day. So the first few weeks it’ll go from needing water every 3 days to every other day to everyday. Left in a 1 gallon for 2 months and the plant will be rootbound and needing to be watered/fed multiple times a day. A plant with average vigor can fill about a 1 gallon per month of roots before going rootbound. A lot of growers who veg a month and flower for 2 months will use at least a 3 gallon pot.

        • Sasquatch

          Member
          January 10, 2025 at 12:35 pm
          DGC ProducerFree Membership

          Love how you explained this. This is what we are learning right now with our first grow. The thicker stalks have bigger and thicker bud sites so that tells me, had I known sooner, I should’ve used a 3 gal pot instead of a 5 gal. Would’ve had thicker roots, thicker stalks and thicker buds! My yield would have been amazeballz! Thanks for the info @jmystro

  • frank_white

    Member
    January 10, 2025 at 12:40 pm
    Free Membership

    You have such a rich understanding of this stuff, mystro! I really value your feedback, brother. Thank you for breaking it down.

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