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[dudewiththe2x4]

What’s up yall, so I’m running an rs11x gorilla cookies (left) and an og (right) I’m in week 3 of veg since transplant in canna coco with dots and recharge once a week Ive noticed I’m starting to get some yellowing on my leaves and less than dark green new growth recently which I also had my last run which led to browning crunchy leaves that easily snap off and want to address it earlier this run. My water is hard around 225ppm out of the tap and I leave it out to dechlorinate and I’ve recently started cutting my water with distilled water which brings it to about 82 ppm and I ph to roughly 6.0 using phosphoric acid. Last run I tried supplementing cal mag in flower and it didn’t seem to help at all. Any and all help would be appreciated I’m going to scrog and flip in about a week or two and I’d like to get ahead of everything now. Asides from that I’ve seen very happy vigorous growth but I know veg in general/larger fan leaves can be deceptive. I appreciate yall!

• This discussion was modified 3 weeks, 3 days ago by  dudewiththe2x4. Reason: Wanted to get notifications w replies

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Discussion

[Unknown Member]

And this is why Google says to use ec instead of ppm if your wondering..

Here are the key reasons why EC is preferred over ppm: Standardized Measurement: EC measures the actual electrical conductivity of the solution in standard units like millisiemens per centimeter (mS/cm) or microsiemens per centimeter (\(\mu \)S/cm). This is a consistent and reliable measure of the total dissolved salts (nutrients) in the water.Inconsistent PPM Scales: There is no single, universal ppm scale. Different meters use different conversion factors to turn an EC reading into a ppm number.The most common is the PPM 500 scale (e.g., an EC of 1.0 mS/cm equals 500 ppm).Another common scale is the PPM 700 scale (e.g., an EC of 1.0 mS/cm equals 700 ppm).If you are following a nutrient schedule in ppm, but your meter uses a different conversion factor, your nutrient concentrations will be off, which can lead to over or underfeeding your plants.Hydroponic Growing Medium: Coco coir is an inert, soilless medium that functions similarly to a hydroponic system, where plants get all their nutrients from the water solution. In these systems, precise control of the nutrient solution is critical, and the consistency of EC measurements is essential for success.Easier Communication: Using EC allows you to easily share and compare your nutrient data with other growers or nutrient suppliers without confusion over which ppm scale is being used. By using an EC meter, you ensure you are working with reliable data, allowing for more consistent and effective nutrient management in your coco garden.

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[dudewiththe2x4]

Well said, I appreciate the help. Would there be a way to find out which scale my ppm meter uses? Or is there a specific ec reader?

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[lightning93]

I had this same thing and it took me a minute to figure it out. I use real buckets, grow dots, recharge and coco. So I was watering at 6.2 to 6.5 ph. And 110ppm. It would sit in the reservoir and go up a tiny bit then the float bucket a tiny bit and the to the pots. In the bottom of the pot it would be about 7.0 to 7.2! That caused a potassium deficiency. I fixed it by

1. Allowing my water to sit and hour and then rechecking ph. It changes.

2. Watering with 5.7 to 5.9ph water.

3. Adding new mellinium pk apatite.

4. Cleaned my buckets/resivoir and keep them clean. I think crap in there was changing my ph.

I don’t know if this helps your situation but its what I was dealing with.

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[dudewiththe2x4]

Appreciate it dude yeah triple checking my ph and lowered my lights for now

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[potseed-webber]

If my Coco has gone below 30% total saturation weight more than once in consecutive cycles and I see any signs of deficiency I’ll just water to runoff at 5.8ph. I additionally flush to reduce ppm to the appropriate level if I have not in the last month.

I don’t do any of this until I calibrate my ph meter if I have not in the last month.

Best of luck to you!

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[dudewiththe2x4]

Thanks dude!

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