Dwc root issue

  • Dwc root issue

    Posted by thedottiegman on December 8, 2024 at 11:44 pm

    What’s up growmies I’ve been trying to figure out what is causing this nutrient build up or root rot. Ro water ph I let ride from 5.8-6.5 ec 1.4 water temps 72f. Using new millennium nutrients now. This is before and after I rinsed the roots off

    • This discussion was modified 1 week, 5 days ago by  thedottiegman.
    thedottiegman replied 1 week, 4 days ago 7 Members · 22 Replies
  • 22 Replies
  • burnme420

    Member
    December 9, 2024 at 1:00 am
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    Just my very humble opinion, but I would add an air stone with a pump and a couple drops of hydrogen peroxide, but that is just me.

    • m1ghtym0u3e

      Member
      December 9, 2024 at 1:24 am
      DGC Producer

      Can dump a few ounces rather than a few drops if its 3% drug store stuff.

    • thedottiegman

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      December 9, 2024 at 5:06 am
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      You’re not able to see it but I have a big pump and 4” x 2” air stone. (One per bucket) the hydrogen peroxide I will try though!

      • bigeasy

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        December 10, 2024 at 9:11 am
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        I would trim off the rot and introduce a bacillus(like hydro guard) but the peroxide will work. Also you fill hydro bucket and the plants drink it down… the root rot will tend to form in that “tide” zone. Try a spray bottle with a solution of bacillus or peroxide and spray the whole root ball enough to wet it often(daily) to keep things a bit more healthy. Pruning the roots will encourage more growth, btw, similar to the growth above.

        • thedottiegman

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          December 10, 2024 at 10:40 am
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          Oooo I like the idea of spraying the roots. I soaked them in some hydrogen peroxide after taking them to the shower and spraying all the loose/ rotted roots out. I’m gonna have to give this a shot. Everything appears to be looking much better today after adding fresh water and nutrients

  • m1ghtym0u3e

    Member
    December 9, 2024 at 1:23 am
    DGC Producer

    DWC is very difficult at above 70f so if you can do something about that that’s the obvious answer. I ran whole garden above that with supplemented oxygen using air stones. But also consider a high powered pump with a venturi made from vinyl tubing in the res so your not constantly having to clean your air stones cuz they will clog daily. Beyond that southern ag makes a fungicide that uses the same beneficial bacteria as hydroguard but its 100,000 times more concentrated and half the price. In my experience peroxide is ok to use for the first day but its very short lived due to the nature of it. Peroxide is unstable that’s what makes it useful however it only lasts a few hours for that reason. I had much better luck using bacteria Bacillus amyloliquefaciens (hydroguard/souther ag fungicide). Fight fire with fire 🙂 Good luck.

    p.s. It will help with your ph swing also. And I would consider 6.5 to be far too high. If your ph is climbing that fast its likely bacteria causing it. You can safely ph down to 5.6 and let it ride no higher than 6.0. But this is why allot of people choose things like coco so you have a buffer and your not fighting to keep the water oxygenated.

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 5 days ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.
    • thedottiegman

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      December 9, 2024 at 5:10 am
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      Normally I like to keep the window open and pull outside air into my tent to keep my water temps around 68f but it has been way too humid lately. I have used hydro guard though. How often would you add hydro guard? I’ve added once this week already 2ml per gallon (I use 3gal water for 5gal bucket) I should also add that my ph will rise about .5-1.0 in a 24hr period which seems normal to me but is this not the case?

  • bepennjier

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    December 9, 2024 at 5:37 am
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    something that gets overlooked often is the air pump set up:
    Is you air pump inside your tent or outside? outside it pulls in cooler air (it’s obvious I know, but often people don’t bother or forget)

    how long is your tubing from air pump to bubbler? those pumps create a good amount of heat (something something physics and compressing gases) a longer run of tubes will give the air more time to cool down a bit but it’s a trade off between what your pump can handle (longer tube=more resistance) and how much the air in the tube can actually cool down in the given environment before it reaches the water.

    I’ve killed plants before by pumping hot air in the res in the hight of summer😅

    • thedottiegman

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      December 9, 2024 at 7:19 am
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      Oh wow I didn’t think about this. I have all my air pump suspended inside the tent with a fan blowing on them and hoses are as short as possible

    • thedottiegman

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      December 9, 2024 at 9:55 am
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      All of my tents are set up similar to this. So you’re suggesting I move the pumps to the outside with longer hoses? My thought process was to suspend it inside the tent (to make it not so loud) and then hoses short as possible for most air pressure.

      • bepennjier

        Member
        December 9, 2024 at 11:06 am
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        yes I’d see if there is a way to get the air pump outside of the tent, maybe you can find a way to suspend it there (they are loud and vibrate a lot yeah). For now I’d try to leave the tubes as short as possible with the pump outside.

        there are good reasons to have those pipes as short as pos, like you mentioned: pressure. the longer pipes to cool the air inside the pipes wont do much on its own with room temperature. ideally one’d use something like a small active heat exchanger/aircooler after the pump but this is absolute overkill.

        getting the pump outside the tent should help a lot,

        a bit of H2O2, I use 2ml/l of a 3% solution as continuous dose. in your case I’d give it more maybe 4ml/l once or for a rinse (pHed water),

        check the roots daily for the next couple of days

        and things ‘should’ recover fairly well

        • thedottiegman

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          December 9, 2024 at 9:58 pm
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          I’ve done everything you’ve mentioned so far just gota get the h202 thank you!

          • bepennjier

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            December 10, 2024 at 5:25 am
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            fingers crossed 🤞

  • purp-terp-pheno-god

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    December 9, 2024 at 8:31 am
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    Tons of great info here. I would double check your temps during the lights off period too. MAybe cut your lights off an hour and a half before you normally would and see how cold the water is when the lights are off. A drastic swing in temps can cause that to happen too. It might be getting super cold, like lower 60’s maybe, and then back to 72 and that will cause all sorts of issues.

    Like a few others have said, you can add 3% H202 to your buckets (I suggest weekly) to keep algae, root rot and most pathogens at bay. You can use much more than most people think. I was using 1/2 ounce to an ounce per 5 gals of water with great results. I suggest you use a single plant every grow to experiment and learn with. Good luck brother. ✌

    • thedottiegman

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      December 9, 2024 at 9:52 am
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      Hey so I’m not sure on water temps but when my lights are off my room temps are 66f. I really do think I just can’t let the water get above 70f for me personally. You all have given me super solid advice this is amazing

  • m1ghtym0u3e

    Member
    December 9, 2024 at 9:34 am
    DGC Producer

    I don’t remember exact ratios with hydro guard it was allot though. Using southern ag I only add 1ml to 20 gallons and that’s probably overkill and it keeps things perfectly stable. Hydroguard is literally 99% water I don’t know that you could overdo it honestly.

    • thedottiegman

      Member
      December 9, 2024 at 9:53 am
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      I’m gonna check this stuff out because I really don’t think hydroguard is doing anything for me

      • m1ghtym0u3e

        Member
        December 9, 2024 at 10:39 am
        DGC Producer

        I would run a heavy dose of H202 for a day. Then swap out your nutrient solution then run a heavy dose of hydroguard or similar. It’s just bacteria you’re not gonna overdo it. But if you already have a ton of bad bacteria in your nutrient solution and in the roots you gotta address that. Just my opinion and how I would address it.

        • thedottiegman

          Member
          December 9, 2024 at 10:41 am
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          Is that gunk build up in the bucket bacteria or the nutrients you think?

          • m1ghtym0u3e

            Member
            December 9, 2024 at 10:42 am
            DGC Producer

            Unsure I’ve never ran that line before. Salt based nutes shouldn’t have any buildup but organic based lines can for sure. But you definitely have root rot going on based on the other pics.

            • This reply was modified 1 week, 5 days ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.
          • jmystro

            Moderator
            December 9, 2024 at 11:53 am
            AdministratorFree MembershipDGC Executive Producer

            3% hydrogen peroxide at a ratio of 3:1 water/peroxide will kill mold (fungus/microbes) on contact. You can soak roots in this concentrated solution for about an hour. After, you can use 2-3 tsp per gallon of 3% peroxide at anytime without harming microbe populations. The reaction is what is harmful to microbes. You can prevent any possible harm by forcing the reaction in water. H2O2 decomposes to H2O and O2 in water. It comes in an opaque bottle with stabilizers to prevent decomposition from H2O2 into H2O and O2 on the store shelf. It’s the O2 we’re after for roots/microbes. Decomposition happens faster with catalysts like heat and/or light (especially UV). When you don’t have Pythium, you can add fairly concentrated peroxide in water and let it sit under light/sun for about 10 minutes and you’ll have O2 and not reactive H2O2. Also, never pump hot, CO2 enriched grow room air into your reservoir.

            • thedottiegman

              Member
              December 9, 2024 at 3:21 pm
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              Wow jmystro you’re always helpin me out on the post much love. I’m going to get more air hose to move all my pumps outside of the tents. Thank you all

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