[budwinjones]

It looks like a calcium deficiency.

What medium are you growing in, how often do you feed/water, and do you have a pH meter?

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 1 day ago by  budwinjones.
• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 1 day ago by  budwinjones.

[smoker1980ncmomma]

Growing in Coco coir and using floraflex. Yeah always phone to 5.8 and getting plenty of runoff. The E C goes in at 2.5 but it’s been a battle with it holding steady in my runoff.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

How are you checking your PH? Are you using a cheap pen (cuz cheap pens suck)? Drops? Looks like PH for sure. Runoff EC can swing all over depending on allot of factors. Just focus on getting 10-20% runoff that’s all you need. Runoff EC is good data but chasing it isn’t worth it imo. Also can you post a pic of the whole plant? Are you spraying anything for IPM? Is that just lower growth or new growth?

• This reply was modified 3 weeks ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[dude]

What type of CoCo are you using?

[flowerpower]

I don’t use EC I use PPM. That being said; it looks like a pH issue to me causing an uptake issue. Besides pH, it could be watering, an imbalance of cal/mag (LOL), or an issue in your rhizosphere. Good luck growmie we’ve all been there.

[electricword]

If you’re PHing your solution, are feeding at label strength and a couple of flushes hasn’t done anything, I’m going to say it’s probably your light intensity, if you create photosynthates faster than the plant can uptake and store nutrients then you get what looks like classic lockout.

Best way to rule out pH is leave some solution out for about 48 hours, and then test again to see if the pH has walked.

As far as the light goes, at least 90% of us are using too much light. I know it seems counterintuitive to turn the lights down, especially if you’ve been in this game for a long time. The bottom line is we have much more efficient technology, a modern $50 LED light is as much as five times more efficient than the HID equivalent you’d be using 20 years ago..

[smoker1980ncmomma]

Im currently running floraflex. Bluelab pen so it isn’t the pen. We have been trying to troubleshoot but I think I have to agree that it’s either Phosphorus or light intensity. I attached more photos for Regen. It’s happening on both tables so. This run will just have to be a learning process I suppose. 😫

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Probes go bad on any pen like the other person below said. Test drops are $12 and will pay for themselves in the long run. I have fancy equipment too but still use drops weekly to test. Just 10 secs can rule out a whole lot of time wasted. Troubleshooting 101 is rule out what’s cheap and fastest.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Here’s two name brand pens both were calibrated before this shot. Working in coco it only takes a 0.2-0.3 delta to make your whole garden look like that. Start with the basics order some $12 drops then come back after.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.
• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[bepennjier]

played around with citric acid lately? coz that’s pretty close to what my plants looked like when I did. what do you use to ph your water? and you’re saying it’s not your pen but it doesn’t matter how expensive it was or what brand it is, just check that it actually shows the correct ph, tho, I assume you do calibrate it regularly.

but yeah that’s what my plants start to look like when something is wrong with the ph 😔

[m1ghtym0u3e]

I use sulfuric or citric for IPM and it’ll leave some spots like that if I go super hard but not that bad.

[bepennjier]

so a quick sanity check for my ph pen is my tap water. I know its ph and I test tap water first everytime I use the pen. It’s no calibration, just a quick check. Tap water is also the first I test after I callibrated the pen and your
water supplier should be able to give you the ph for the water they pump
into the pipes. My ph pen btw is the 10€ model from amazon (the yellow one 😉) as long as you store them properly (KCl solution) and know how to work with them rather than against them they caaan (with a slight stretch) be good for years… yeah I know I shouldn’t but as long as it works it works.

The other thing is the citric acid. I stopt using it and that’s what I recommend. Citric acid forms citrates and for plants those are like high fructose corn sirup. they take it up easily and it messes with their metabolism. with citric acid and thus additional citrates in the system the plants litteraly can’t be bothered to mess around with other nutrients coz they have the cheap energy from the citrates. It’s like a drug for them and they rather have their drug than a proper meal.

you said you use it as an IPM, I’ve never heard that before and can’t see how that is supposed to work, can you explain that a bit?

[bepennjier]

I thought I’m answering the original author of the post and just noticed you are a different account in the comments. so the ph part wasn’t intended for you. but I’d still love to learn about the citric ipm

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Citric is the main ingredient in Lost coast plant therapy for mold or PM. Its also the active in most other organic PM/IPM products. Sulfuric is stronger and better for PM and has the added benefit of hurting pests also however its less safe to handle. I have had a ph pen test normal under tap water and then still be off when I go to test a more acidic solution. The acids work because they temporarily change the ph of the leaves to make it inhospitable to PM that may be rooted into the tissue. Powdered sulfur breaks down into sulfuric acid over time which is why its been used in ag for mold/PM for decades. But with straight acid your skipping the gunk. I apply at extremely low levels I might want to add. 1ml of 50% sulfuric acid to 1L of water. Maybe even less if using fogger or if its just IPM and I don’t see any signs of pressure.

[bepennjier]

you use it as foliar spray, got ya, that’s the part my brain skipped 😅 I was talking about using it to ph water.

1ml of 50% sulfuric to 1l water is a 0.05% solution. I’d consider this a homeopathic dose, no offense tho I don’t have any reference points to what kind of strength those solutions usually have and when it works it works.

My ipm is silica, in the reservoir not as foliar; those yellow sticky insect traps in my lung room and in the tent. had a lot of bugs this summer and putting the traps in the lung room with a small desk lamp reduced the pest pressure inside the tent by I’d say 90%; and a dehumidifier, having control over my rH is worth every penny for me in my environment

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Yeah I use 50% phosphoric for PH down. And some southern ag fungicide in my res to stabilize and keep PH from swinging too much. Yes its a very low dose because its a very strong acid and it knocks the fuck outta PM just ask my last harvest about it. I honestly forget the ratios for citric foliar but I think its about 10x of sulfuric. You’ll see similar ratios in commercial products for citric. If your getting gnats just topdress some BTI and your done.

[guppygirl]

Use a chemical test kit that you like, or at least a test strip. All those pens and stuff are either junk, or are too expensive to ever pay for themselves. I have yet to find a pen or meter that’s worth a darn, and I say that having been a Lab Tech since 1991.

[m1ghtym0u3e]

Pens are fast and handy. And a decent one like an apera, blue lab, or milwaukee is the only way you can really determine things down to the decimal which absolutely matters if your running in coco/hydro. A chemical test is a must though as a failsafe I agree with that part.

Also when done using a pen you MUST rinse it with clean mineral free water and store the probe in storage solution. This isn’t optional. Any pen not stored this way will fail. And any probe of any kind no matter what will fail eventually. That’s why the better ones have replaceable probes. They are consumables.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by  m1ghtym0u3e.

[zoomycat]

looks like its going from the top down. This puts it in the immobile nutrient list.

Comparing to the leaf chart it looks as if it is a Zinc deficiency.

• This reply was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by  zoomycat. Reason: Added photo

[zoomycat]

This also seems to support it based on the look of the plant.