[ddubya04]

Your next grow will be much better. Don’t over do anything. And definitely don’t do whatever you did to that plant to any others.

[burny]

Cheers!!

I make a coco based soil for my autopots grow. Be careful with calciunite in coco. Good coco is buffered with large amounts of calcium nitrate, so adding more calcium to coco can cause alot of issues. I have had success using langbeinite (sol-po-mag). This adds sulfur, potassium, and magnesium into your coco based soil instead of epsium salt. That’s my 2 cents. Peace love and smoke.

[backwoods_mountain_grower]

What size light do you have on them? Also you didn’t mention any thing about temp or humidity of your tent

[burnme420]

Thanks to everyone for taking a look. I tend to give too much info, so I was trying not to overdo, for flower I have a 450 watt 3000k / red LEDs (off-brand SCHLUX), canopy runs 700-900 ppfd (w/ Photone) , it gets super hot though, and raises the tent temps. I typically run 75-85F and 45% humidity (w/ a humidifier set to keep it at 45%), in the warm months is it ambient 70-90% but in winter it is ambient 30-50%.

I run a carbon filter inside exhausting to a fan and out, and a tower fan that oscillates on low constantly.

For veg I have another area where I use a rig I built with SCHLUX 5000K light bars, 60 watt x 6 @ 18″-24″. The crazy thing about this is it cost about $80 for a 360 watt 2×4 running with an almost identical spectrum to normal lights, runs with way less heat, and the par map is 600-800 at 18″. I grow dwarf tomato bushes with the same light with no issue (I also grow lettuce and radish with just two of these light bars with great success, I have a shelf with two bars rigged to each level). I am seeing 35 days from seed/good clone to an 18″ plant I LST to 10-15 tops and then send to veg (or that is how the last three months have played out).

In the photo here is an early setup where I have Kale in the left, and radish on the right, and some clones that failed when I found out peep pods don’t work well for clone , but its a good example for those light bars. The big rig has no space between the light bars so the intensity doesn’t fall.

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 2 days ago by  burnme420.

[flowerpower]

They look awful lanky to me. I see Lollipop, LST? What’s your light source? You may need a full spectrum light. Where do they get their nutes? They look like they streched awful hard. I haven’t had any plants that were so tall, but that could be a good thing. Spider mites…how did u get rid of them? I wouldn’t take clones from a spider mite mom unless they were COMPLETELY eradicated.

[burnme420]

I top them at +5 nodes, and then started LST. The main issue I am seeing is the buds are really small. I know I light burned them with keeping them at 12″ from the light, changed that to 18″ in week 4, and they seemed to stop burning. I am using MasterBlend Tomato for nutes, but I plan on changing that in the next run.

I beat the mites with Exile Potassium Salt Soap Foliar Spray which is good upto day before harvest. Took about 10 days, and I sprayed every 3 days to the point where the entire plant was dripping from the tops and bottoms. Make sure to spray from every direction. It is a miticide, fungicide, and insecticide in one. It seems to work well, but I still get a few fungus gnats.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by  burnme420. Reason: extra info

[grownok]

Mites are the reason I don’t use soil inside anymore…it’s just not enjoyable to grow plants when you have to fight pests the whole time

[no-nanners]

This!!!

[zoomycat]

How does soil affect mites? Last run I used Coco, perlite and worm castings and my plant produced just under an ounce for months of work. Was a good learning experience and the bud tastes amazing. The cure didn’t go the best.

Current Mix is a ProMix Premium potting soil, Coco, Perlite, worm castings. The current plant seems to be doing much better as it seems like the ProMix is covering any nutrient mistakes I may make with the Gaia Green and it provides the Mycorrhizae for my medium mix. I’ve not found it to be too much different than the Coco blend itself in terms of the consistency but it does cover the nutrient needs better it seems.

Is it some RNG factor that I just got lucky on where the soil due to sterility could have mites in it from the production facility?

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 2 days ago by  zoomycat.