Forum Replies Created
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Senescence or ripening occurs near the end of the plant’s life cycle by increasing it’s ethylene levels. Ethylene is a hormone that blocks the production of chlorophyll allowing for other pigments like flavonoids and carotenoids to show.
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Perpetual sounds good on paper but be aware of the commitment required. Most have no idea how much work/time is actually involved.
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‘She’ was deleted yesterday. DO NOT EMAIL a scammer.
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Unless you have total environmental control, asking how to dial in UV, far red and shit like that is pointless.
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A home grower will see no benefit to power saving at such a small scale. This is more a technique for greedy commercial guys at scale.
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Growers who irrigate coco multiple times a day are usually root bound in a small pot. Nothing to brag about. 😉 Watering is relevant to the pot size, root mass and foliage density.
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Seeds are lottery tickets. It’s possible to win the lottery. Odds are not in your favor. Connoisseurs are willing to sort through the trash. When and if a grower finds something truly worth keeping from seed. The ability to clone is priceless.
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I wrote this 10 years ago but the info is still solid.
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I know the feeling. My cancer kept me out of the grow for over two years until I was finally able to recover from surgery. Now I’m back on the grind I live for. Proper prior planning is a very large part of perpetual growing that you sound familiar with. More veg space is always needed. I try to at least have as much veg space as flower space. Mother plant replacement and/or seedling schedules need to be in line with flower room plant count and size requirements. Knowing the genetics you’re growing allows for schedules to be and stay on point. It really helps to know way ahead of time how long a plant takes to go through each stage of it’s life cycle in terms of planning and scheduling.
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You don’t know exactly what you need for environmental control until you fill your space with full powered lights and plants. Total environmental control evolves being able to get the temperature to 60F with relative humidity down to 40% with your space filled with lights and full grown plants. What conditions you can keep with an empty room is irrelevant. Lights are not the only heat source. More foliage equals more dehumidification that’s needed equals more heat.
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Focus on the basics is my only advice to someone who has no idea what they’re doing.
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Yes, temperature, humidity and CO2 levels are environmental basics.
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A small clone/seedling can not drink very much water. No matter the container size. About 98-99% of the water they pull up through their roots is released back into the air through their leaves. Limiting root space limits plant structure. Branches form thin instead of gaining girth after becoming rootbound. Yield comes from stem thickness. More space is always better as far as they’re concerned. Root vigor equals plant vigor. Every plant is a unique individual. How much water a plant will consume depends on genetic vigor, container size, root mass, amount of foliage and the environment (light, VPD, etc). These 5 basic variables need to be understood before mastering irrigation. For example, If I put a newly rooted clone with average vigor in a 1 gallon pot of saturated media, that clone will not need watered/fed for at least 3 days initially. If left in that pot for a month, it will need to be watered/fed maybe once a day. So the first few weeks it’ll go from needing water every 3 days to every other day to everyday. Left in a 1 gallon for 2 months and the plant will be rootbound and needing to be watered/fed multiple times a day. A plant with average vigor can fill about a 1 gallon per month of roots before going rootbound. A lot of growers who veg a month and flower for 2 months will use at least a 3 gallon pot.